"Why should I buy from a pro shop? I've seen the same equipment cheaper on the Internet?"

The cost of a ball purchased at a pro shop normally includes the ball, fitting, drilling and if required finger inserts and thumb slug. Most pro shops check their products, and want to pass along only the best in quality. The cost of a ball purchased from a source other than a pro shop is just that; the cost of the ball. It normally does not include delivery charges etc. If you later determine that the ball is wrong for you or defective (top weight, pin placements, etc.) get ready to pay to send it back, and be without your equipment for a period of time. When you add up the costs, of having the ball drilled, inserts and slugs etc, buying a ball elsewhere may cost you just as much, if not more than it would at a reputable pro shop! Pro shops can offer you tips to improve your game, choose the proper equipment for you, and even help you get the edge on your competition. Pro shop staff will work with you to tailor your equipment to your game, and allow you to better enjoy your time on the lanes. Support your pro shop, and it will support you!

"What ball weight is correct for me?"

There are a lot of opinions on how heavy a ball you should use. Many people think that you should use a really light ball that you can heave down the lane, and lots of people try to use a really heavy ball. The truth is that everyone is built a little differently, and different weights will apply. Judging the correct weight, based on the house ball they have been using, can be a little confusing. The bowling balls that the centres provide are drilled for the purpose of many people using them. The lighter weight balls generally have smaller holes drilled in them, and as the weight increases, so do the size of the holes. Sometimes the ball with the correct weight will have very large holes drilled in them so you have to squeeze the ball excessively to hold on to it. This makes the ball feel much heavier on your hand. It's quite possible that a ball that fits correctly can be 1 – 2 pounds heavier and handled as easily as a house ball. We believe that you should throw the heaviest ball that you can comfortably handle. Feeling a little tired is normal, since this is still a sport that involves physical activity. Simple physics will tell you that a heavier ball will not deflect off the pins as much as a lighter ball will. The best thing to do is talk to your pro shop, and together you will come up with the weight that is best for you with a custom fit that is designed only for your hand.

"Conventional vs. fingertip -- what's right for me?"

There are two basic grips that you can have in a bowling ball. Conventional and fingertip.

First, the most basic grip used is the conventional grip. The holes are drilled so that you insert your fingers into the ball up to the second joint and the thumb all the way in the ball. This grip gives you the most control on the ball, but somewhat limits the amount of rotation required to hook the ball . However, this doesn't mean that it can't be done. Generally, we recommend a conventional grip for beginners and bowlers who average below 140. This grip is the easiest to hold on to, and properly fitted, will help the beginner learn the basics of the game and improve their average. These are only guides, and not all bowlers under 140 use conventional grips. One of the biggest keys to bowling is repetition. A good comfortable grip is the way to start.

The fingertip grip is the most popular grip used by the more experienced bowler. The fingers are only inserted up to the first joint, and the thumb inserted all the way in. This allows for a faster release, more revolutions and rotation creating a stronger hook.

Both types of grip require the thumb to be fully inserted in the ball. This is what keeps the ball on your hand and the feel of the release depends on the thumb's position as you let go. Whenever you get a ball drilled, it's usually a good idea to bring the ball you currently use with you. Your pro shop will be able to use that information to make any adjustments that are necessary to your grip. If the ball feels good on your hand, they can use that as well to copy that grip to your new ball.

"What are the differences between plastic, urethane, reactive resin, and particle cover stocks?"

The big difference between each of the coverstocks is performance.

Plastic: bowling balls are what all the house balls are made of. These balls will have a basic pancake weight block design and will not allow for very much hook. These balls are excellent for children and beginners who are new to the game and want to have a ball that fits their hand correctly, and learn the basics of the game. These balls are effective for playing a straight line to the pins. Higher average bowlers benefit from plastic balls as well by using these balls for spares.

Urethane: balls are more durable than plastic, and have more surface friction and better contact with the lane than plastic does. This ball will allow you to play a bigger hook to the pocket with less deflection compared to the plastic ball. However as these balls were introduced in the early eighties, there are few to choose from, not readily available and need to be specially ordered.

Reactive: resin balls a coverstock that has additives in the urethane formula to create a "tacky" feel to the ball. Resin balls are also known as reactive urethane. These balls create a much bigger reaction from the bowling ball. This is noticed more toward the back end of the lane in front of the pins. Bowlers are able to create more angles to the pocket. When this ball was introduced, it was the start of a whole new revolution in the game. The scoring pace has picked up an incredible amount since the invention of this material. Because this cover reacts so much harder, it will also be a little more erratic at times as well. The nature of this cover is to skid more through the oil and react very sharply to the drier part of the lane. Technology has allowed for this material to get more predictable as each generation of new balls are released, and can be more finely tuned to the individual bowlers game.

Particle: coverstocks the next revolution in bowling balls. This coverstock has an entirely different feel to it. What this does is give the ball a sort of traction effect with the lanes, like an all weather tyre does on the road. With the heavier oil being used to combat the resin balls, particle coverstocks do not seem to be affected so much. You are going to get a similar look to the urethane balls of the past. This incorporates the benefits of both materials. You get the predictability of the urethane balls, with the hook and power of a resin ball. This ball will give you a strong even arcing reaction that still lets you cut through the oil letting you stay aggressive with your shot.

"How often should my equipment be cleaned? Sanded? Resurfaced?"

All bowling balls should be cleaned after each use. This can be done using various cleaning products available from your pro shop. All balls pick up dirt, oil, and other foreign substances as they roll down the lane. This can alter the ball's reaction. By keeping the ball clean, the ball will react more like when it was new, for longer. If you use a dull sanded ball for example, and with normal cleaning the ball doesn't react as well as it used to, it is time to sand the ball again. This will bring it back close to its out of box condition and reaction. As any bowling ball goes down the lane, small nicks will appear on the surface of the ball. Once there are enough of these little nicks to cause a loss of reaction, it is time to resurface the ball. This can be done to any ball, including polished balls. They are sanded smooth again and then refinished to their out of box condition. Plastic balls should be polished often to keep them working as they should. They can also be resurfaced when the need arises.

"My kids are still growing. Should I purchase a ball for them? Does it matter if they are still growing?"